Fix Your Home Furnace Or Heater – Repair Help and Maintenance. It’s that time of the year and a lot of people are having trouble with their furnaces that are due for maintenance. I’m going to show you a couple of different ways to do-it-yourself and how you can fix your furnace.
Firstly, you always want to check your furnaces (or Boiler) thermostat. Most thermostats run on batteries. In this case there’s a screw on the bottom of the thermostat. it’s always good to change your batteries, because it can mess the thermostat. Last year, I had mine actually not working at all. Then I put new batteries in and there! Issue fixed. So that’s the first thing.
The second thing you want to do is re-start your furnace. Before you do that, you would want to check that your thermostat is all the way down. A couple of things you would want to do if your furnace isn’t working and not starting up as it should: Change your air-filter, if it’s dirty.
Now, before you take off the doors you’d want to look for a power switch. It’s an on/off (switch), this is where your gas is. A lot of furnaces are the same, like I said. You turn it up and it just switches on. So, that’s your gas line. Before you start repair furnace or boiler you would want to switch it off.
Now, if your fans aren’t kicking on at all check first for the little safety switch. If that door is lifted even a little bit, it will automatically shut off your furnace. So that’s the first thing you can check, that the doors are closed completely.
Before you move on you have to go ahead and shut this power back off and also turn that gas off. To re-set it, what you need to do is turn the gas off. You need to wait about five minutes for all the gas fumes to clear off and then you can turn this back on and then go ahead and close the panel door.
The ignition are not Pilot Lights anymore; you don’t ignite them by hand. I don’t suggest lighting them up by hand either. Just be very, very careful because this part here is very, very sensitive. These are very brittle.
This (ignition) is usually electric. Basically, it starts the flame. There’s no pilot light, it is a flame-type sensor. There’s also a gas-version of that, which is a thermo-couple. These can get corroded. And it comes really handy if you have a nut-driver.
Now, this is for instance if your heat turns on and then off and you can tell the heat is working. But this is spaced like a thermometer so if it’s reading this wrong, it might keep shutting your furnace off. So, what you can do, is get some really fine sand-paper and go ahead and clean this off. If you have a thermo- couple – this might be copper, it’s going to have copper coming to it. In this case, it’s electrical.
Basically, the LED light will light up a code; It might be one blink, or two blinks, or three, four, five blinks. And it can give you a better idea of what is actually going wrong.
Here are some of a table to show you what those codes mean.
- Flash sequence codes 1 through 11 are as follows: LED will turn “on”
for 1/4 second and “off” for 1/4 second. This pattern will be repeated the number of times equal to the code. For example, six “on” flashes equals a number 6 fault code. All flash code sequences are broken by a 2 second “off” period.
- SLOW GREEN FLASH: Normal operation.
- SLOW AMBER FLASH: Normal operation with call for heat.
- RAPID RED FLASH: Twinning error, incorrect 24V phasing. Check twinning wiring.
- RAPID AMBER FLASH: Flame sense current is below 1.5 microamps.
- Check and clean flame sensor. Check for proper gas flow. Verify that current is greater than 1.5 microamps at flame current test pad.
- 4 AMBER FLASHES: The control is receiving a “Y” signal from the thermostat without a “G” signal, indicating improper thermostat wiring.
- 1 RED FLASH: This indicates that flame was sensed when there was not a call for heat. The control will turn on both the inducer motor and supply air blower. A gas valve that leaks or is slow closing would typically cause this fault.
- 2 RED FLASHES: This indicates that the normally open pressure switch contacts are stuck in the closed position. The control confirms these contacts are open at the beginning of each heat cycle. This would indicate a faulty pressure switch or miss- wiring.
- 3 RED FLASHES: This indicates the normally open pressure switch contact did not close after the inducer was energized. This could be caused by a number of problems: faulty inducer, blocked vent pipe, broken pressure switch hose or faulty pressure switch.
- 4 RED FLASHES: This indicates that the main limit switch has opened its normally closed contacts. The control will operate the supply air blower and inducer. This condition may be caused by: dirty filter, improperly sized duct system, incorrect blower speed setting, incorrect firing rate or faulty blower motor. Also, this fault code could be caused by a blown fuse located on the control board.
- 5 RED FLASHES: This fault is indicated if the normally closed contacts in the roll-out switch opens. The roll-out control is manually reset. If it has opened, check for proper combustion air, proper inducer operation, and primary heat exchanger failure or burner problem. Be sure to reset the switch and cycle power (24 VAC) to the control after correcting the failure condition. Also, this fault code could be caused by a blown fuse located on the control board.
- 6 RED FLASHES: This indicates that after the unit was operating, the pressure switch opened 4 times during the call for heat. If the main blower is in a “Delay on” mode, it will complete it, and any subsequent delay off period. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.
- 7 RED FLASHES: This fault code indicates that the flame could not be established. This no-light condition occurred 3 times (2 retries) during the call for heat before locking out. Low gas pressure, faulty gas valve, dirty or faulty flame sensor, faulty hot surface ignition (ignitor) or burner problem may cause this. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.
- 8 RED FLASHES: This fault is indicated if the flame is lost 5 times (4 recycles) during the heating cycle. This could be caused by low gas pressure, dirty or faulty flame sensor or faulty gas valve. The furnace will lock out for one hour and then restart.
- 9 RED FLASHES: Indicates reversed line voltage polarity or grounding problem. Both heating and cooling operations will be affected. Check polarity at furnace and branch. Check furnace grounding. Check that flame probe is not shorted to chassis.
- 10 RED FLASHES: Flame sensed with no call for heat. Check gas valve and gas valve wiring.
- 11 RED FLASHES: This indicates that a primary or auxiliary limit switch has opened its normally-closed contacts and has remained open for more than five minutes. This condition is usually caused by a failed blower motor or blower wheel. Cycle power (24 VAC) to the control to reset the hard lockout condition after correcting the failure condition.
The other thing you might want to check is this oscillating fuse. It’s that purple one right there. And that fuse is good. But if those fuses are popped, then that’s probably going to be your problem. And as long as we are down here, look at these capacitors. You don’t want to mess with the capacitors, because the tops will explode on them. There’s a kind of a Cross-K. Those tops will explode outwards and they will have a kind of bubble on them. So, that could be a problem in this case.
If this has helped you out guys, just give me thumbs up. If you have any other questions that I can’t think of, I’ll try to help you if I can answer them. This was a crown furnace and like I said a lot of the setups for these are almost identical and some are even interchangeable.
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